Leg 016

"A windy weekend"

The waterfront dining options in Willemstad are fantastic.

Wanda and I spent the last four nights in perfect Curaçao.  While she rested on the ramp, I took scuba excursions one after another, visiting so many grottos, shipwrecks and hidden reefs.  I wasn't quite able to garner enough courage to go underwater cave diving (thanks to my recent obsession with YouTube videos about spelunking drownings), but I did explore quite a few mildly-tight spots under the hot Caribbean sun.

Today's plan is to continue making progress on my world tour by continuing east to Bonaire Island.  While it is not formally its own country, Bonaire is a Dutch municipality (with its own flag).  Most importantly, it is a natural stopping point on my way to my next country, Trinidad and Tobago, which lies 459 miles east of my location.  My plan is to make stops on Bonaire Island, Gran Roque, and Isla Margarita, flying as many jobs as possible in this corridor.  My Aruba passengers (Tony & his boys) will catch an Air Caraibes flight back to Barcelona from Bonaire Island, so it's the four of us again on this leg.

Holding short while the daily KLM 777-300 arrives from Amsterdam.

I don't need any fuel, so it's a quick stop at the 'Ave del Paraiso Aviation' FBO counter to pay my 4 nights tie down fee of $200 (on FSEconomy).  The friendly folks there wish us a good flight and offer a golf cart ride out to the airplane.  Since we are a literal mile away from the ramp, Tony and I welcome this kind gesture.

Wanda is rested, ready and passes her preflight inspection with flying colors (pun intended).  She's anxious to make the short hop to Bonaire Island.  We're only going to cover 46 nautical miles today, which should take 20 minutes or less.  Heck, the walk to the airplane would have nearly taken that amount of time in this hot 33C heat today.

We make the very long taxi to runway 11, passing the large US Air Force ramp.  I ponder the irony of the KC-10 tanker aircraft being serviced by a Toyota tanker.  It doesn't take much to amuse me.  We hold short for 5 minutes, giving space for KLM9855 to arrive from Amsterdam.  This gives me sufficient time to perform a thorough engine run-up, checking the mixture, carb heat, alternator and prop control for each side.  We're cleared to 'line up and wait', conveniently pointed almost exactly at Bonaire Island.

Climbing to 2,00 feet, coming up on the Curaçao industrial park & international raceway.

Even though it is hot outside, our departure only requires 800 feet to be airborne.  In fact, by the time we reach the KLM 777, Wanda is already climbing through 500 feet at Vy speed.  There is a very strong crosswind from 045 degrees, which not only adds to our lift, but keeps us relatively slow and pushed horizontally across the ground to the south.  It is quite turbulent, but the forecast tells me we won't find smooth air until at least 12,000 feet, which makes no sense for this short leg.  Today we'll cruise at 2,000 feet, bouncing along as if we're still riding the jet boat that carried us to various dive sites.

Tony's boys are slightly bothered by the bumps, but I reassure them that we'll be on the ground again in 15 minutes.  I also suggest they listen to music, as that helps me divert my attention away from turbulence.

Taking my own advice, I press shuffle and Rita Ora's "Only Want You" sings away the bumps and helps my eyes focus on the bouncing instrument panel.  Wanda certainly doesn't mind the wind.  She's configured, happy and efficient here at 2,000 feet.

Approaching the big windmills at Playa Canoa.

There's only about five minutes of flying time before we bid Curaçao farewell and head for open water.  I am fascinated by a site that has several large flat circles, connected by dirt roads.  There isn't any public information available about this installation, but to me, satellite images look like large radio antennas.

A few moments later we are approaching the three very tall windmills at Playa Canoa.  Similar to our approach into Curaçao, there is a large ruddy streak of ferrous igneous rock down there.  For a moment I ponder the wonder of volcanic islands and their ability to form above the water from below.  As a former part-time resident of Maui, I've thought of this subject many times in the past, but I still remain absolutely astounded by the process.  It makes me very eager to visit another favorite place of mine: the red island of Lanzarote. 

Passing Oostpunt & bidding Curaçao adieu.

We're over the open water, the bumps have settled into a gentle back and forth swell, and Oostpunt passes off our right wing.  Curaçao was an incredible island that, as promised, did have a little bit of everything.  I'm not sure that many of my USA friends would even know where to find Curaçao on the map or how to correctly pronounce its name, so I hope my short visit here might inspire them to look deeper.  The people, in true Colonial Dutch fashion, were reserved but polite.  I enjoyed plenty of privacy and efficient hospitality.  If you are looking for a low-key tropical destination that does not feel at all "resorty", Curaçao is your lucky charm.

Before leaving gliding distance of the beach, I scan my panel very carefully, but all is fine, so I decide to continue eastward, into a 15 knot cross-headwind, for Bonaire Island.

Catching our first glimpse of the northwest coast of Bonaire Island.

I press shuffle once again and for the next 10 minutes am listening to "Atlas" by FM84 (which is 47 minutes long, so I'm covered).  It is a nice vibe to set the mood for the first vision of a new place never seen before.

In less than 15 minutes, Tony, the boys and I catch our first glimpse of the shores of Bonaire Island.  There is a low cloud layer settled directly over it at 2,100 feet.  I plan to descend to 1,500 with plenty of room to spare for VFR clearance minimums.  The ATIS is telling me to expect a 20 knot (gusting 31) crosswind from the southeast for runway 10.  I've had a little practice in crosswinds with Wanda so far, but this will be my biggest challenge of the trip.  With plenty of time to spare, I brief my passengers about the windy approach we will soon be experiencing and ensure they are comfortably buckled-in.  All looks good in the cabin.  I check the gauges once again and all looks good with Wanda.  I contact Flamingo Tower, who clears us straight in for runway 10, with caution for gusty conditions.

It's not Sint Maarten, but this is a neat place to spot some arriving traffic.  Here's Wanda battling the crosswind & coastal haze.

Our entire approach stays over the water, passing just south of the dark dearth of Klein Bonaire.  According to my research, this little islet is home to some remnants of slave huts from the mid-1800's.  I also found it interesting that a private owner removed all the native trees in the early 1900s, which is why it looks so dull.  For now there is only low scrub brush growing there, but since 1999, the Foundation for the Preservation of Klein Bonaire has been trying to raise money to regrow the native vegetation.  Fascinating and a bit sad, eh?

Bringing my focus back to the approach, I keep right aileron in to the wind with left rudder to keep us tracking on course.  Today's landing will be only flaps 10, flown at 100 knots instead of 90 knots just to be safe.  I gently wrestle the wind as we pass over the green reef that surrounds Bonaire Island and touchdown just past the numbers with a slightly firm technique to keep Wanda planted on the ground.  I retract the flaps immediately and reduce the propeller pitches to keep us losing against lift, all while tracking the centerline with aggressive rudder dancing.  Within moments we're slow and I am able to U-turn and back taxi to the small apron area, near the Air Caraibes Saab 340 getting ready to head to Barcelona.

Wanda is starting to look colorful.  Our collection of flags is getting more and more exciting!

Today's leg was challenging, and I am glad it only lasted 36 minutes from start-up to shut-down.  Wanda performed well, as did my passengers.  My plan is to spend a couple of days on Bonaire Island, enjoying some ocean kayaking and hiking, then to head to the challenging little airfield at Gran Roque.

As I give Wanda a couple extra tie downs (so as not to lose her to the lively winds), I bid Tony and the boys farewell, as they walk the 20 meters from Wanda to the Saab 340.  They'll be home in time for dinner, at which point I'll be hitting the beach, waiting for the Caribbean sunset, in water up to my ankles.

Today's flight marks 23 complete hours spent in the air with Wanda.  It's not to early to declare that she is one of the best aircraft I have ever flown.  I give her starboard engine a little love pat, don my aviator shades and head for the beach.